Monthly Archives: March 2010

How To Make Ceviche:
Red Snapper Ceviche with Red Onion and Jalapeno

Red Snapper Ceviche with Red Onion and Jalapeno, photo by Donna

I go back and forth about how much to stress ease in the kitchen.  This is so easy!  This is so fast!  You'll never believe it! No excuse not to cook it yourself it's so fast and easy! And the exact opposite: Forget about ease, forget about how long it takes, that shouldn't be the point! The point is living well, working well, supporting, encouraging and lifting up your family and friends. One of the main daily ways we fulfill all of these things is by cooking and eating well.  Why don't more people understand this? It's so important, we shouldn't care how long cooking takes or how difficult or easy it is. We should make the time.  (The truth is, the longer we spend ...

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“More Bacon, fewer Bacos”

Slate weighs in on America's misguided war on fat. I ranted about this two years ago. Bottom line: stay away from the processed crap. That's what making us fat and sick: Snackwells and Granola Bars, not bacon and eggs.

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Best Cooking Show Ever?

Lawrence Downes, an NYTimes editorial writer, says this one is. I'm not sure what the point of this piece is, but it's a fascinating choice and I'm glad to learn about the show! As one of the hosts says, "You're only as good as your baking powder."  Hmm...  Anyway, I'd vote for their return.

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Poached Salmon Lunch, with Asparagus,
Shrimp and Salads

A perfect lunch upon arrival in West Palm Beach, photo by Donna

A week’s vacation in West Palm—a week that concluded with blue skies, beach, pool food, fruity rum drinks—began with an unexpectedly fine lunch made by my dear, hard-working, fun-loving, enormously generous mum. We'd risen early, left gloomy Cleveland Heights in time to drop the dog off at Metrobarks, arrived at PBI, rented a stupid little Chevy that caused nothing but arguments until it became funny, and arrived at Mom's by lunchtime.  She had glasses of cold white wine and the above meal waiting for us. It was such a lovely spread, Donna was immediately moved to take it out onto the sunny balcony for a couple quick snapshots with the Lumix. It's a perfect example of how to put together a quick meal ...

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From the Archives:
It’s a Wonderful Life

This was my very first rant, originally published 7/6/06 here on megnut.com (Meg is back to blogging if you didn't know, welcome back, Meg!).  I sat down at my desk having read the Bruni agony that warm summer morning and it just came out. Has anything changed...?

This continual talk about the ethics of eating creatures that were once living is starting to get on my nerves. It’s not enough that those knuckleheads in Chicago and those sensitivos in California want to waste their time on the foie issue and the Whole Foods people figured out a cool marketing tool in playing to our arrogant anthropomorphist inclinations—giving lobsters spa treatment so we feel better about driving a knife through their skull. Brilliant.

What’s next, no oysters? No sir—they’re ...

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From the Archives:
The Shame of the Chicken Caesar

ChickencaesarsaladOriginally posted, 8/13/07 (alas, I have yet to rid America of this tragedy): Does anyone know who first put cooked chicken breast on a Caesar salad and called it a Chicken Caesar?  I wish I did.  I’ve been upset about this at least for two years now because I remember railing to Todd English and Ming Tsai about it as we traveled together for an erstwhile cooking show.  “The Chicken Caesar is an emblem of the mediocrity of American cuisine!” I would cry.  Ming would chuckle and turn up the volume on his iPod, and Todd more or less ignored me as a run-of-the-mill crank screaming into the nor’easter of American food culture. Or so I thought. Last week I had lunch at a Cheesecake ...

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America: Too Stupid To Cook, Part II

Poached egg on a bed of sautéed spinach, photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

I tried not to read Kim Severson's New York Times article on the one-touch buttons on appliances at the International Home and Housewares show in Chicago.  You know the buttons that say "Cookies" on your toaster oven or the "Popcorn" button on your microwave that even ConAgra, maker of microwave popcorn, says you should not use.  My microwave, my toaster oven, they have these stupid, maddening, insulting, ridiculous, harmful buttons.  I hate them, but they're unavoidable. I didn't want to read Kim's story—Electrolux oven has a "perfect turkey button," put a turkey in, press a button, perfect turkey!—because I knew it would make ... my ... blood ... BOIL! Hey!  Idiot manufacturers!  Cut it out!  The buttons don't work—even ...

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Corned Beef with Braised Cabbage
and Red Potatoes

Corned beef and cabbage, photo by Donna

This was dinner last night, moments before it was consumed.  Donna said, "This is the best cabbage I've ever had," and, back at the stove, looking for thirds on the corned beef, "This is all you made?" All in all, a success.  I've used this particular preparation several times and it can't be beat, a really smart strategy for cooking and serving and making use of all the flavors and juices and soft textures. First cook your corned beef (simmered for a few hours, braised, wrapped in foil with sliced onions for 4 hours at 250—how I did it—or even cooked sous vide). Only way not to cook this is slow roasting (a perfectly fine strategy but won't give ...

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Does Obesity = Hunger

Hunger related problems now occurring in one of the nation's capitals of obesity, South Bronx, from Sunday's NYTimes. Expect more to come if the cheapest food remains the most harmful food available.

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Corned Beef: How To Cure Your Own

Brine for Corned Beef, Photo by Donna

With the approach of St. Paddy's day I got a brisket into the brine Friday, in time to make my wife the corned beef she loves. And I realized I've never blogged about it.  Everyone who cooks should corn their own beef.  It's easy as brining a chicken. And when you make your own pickling spice (brine photo above, recipe below), you can really pump up the flavor. Any cut of beef can be "corned" (corn was originally a generic term for grain, deriving from the same root as kernel and grain; corning beef referred to curing beef with grains of salt, McGee, page 477, thanks to Patrick for his corrective comment).  But the best cuts are the tougher, less-expensive cuts ...

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