Monthly Archives: December 2009

Excellent Cooked Eggnog Recipe
and Happy New Year!

Photo by Donna, cooked eggnog with meringue and nutmeg

Photo by Donna, cooked eggnog with meringue and nutmeg

I'm so pleased with results of the cooked eggnog I wrote for the last post, I wanted to give an official tested recipe.  Don't misunderstand me.  I'm a fan of raw egg eggnog, as well as aged-for-two-years raw eggnog. I don't believe anyone should be afraid of eating raw egg (especially if you buy organic or well-raised eggs).  Raw yolk on raw ground beef is a delight, a kind of ready made sauce. I love a homemade mayo, a runny poached egg.  Indeed, raw or warm egg is one of the great pleasures of cooking and eating.  So here's to lots of eggs in 2010—may more of them be laid by healthy happy chickens! But there are those who may ...

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Merry Christmas
and Happy Holidays To All

Photo by Donna

Photo by Donna

Linus said it simply enough: "Peace and good will toward men.  That's what Christmas is all about Charlie Brown."  Regardless of faith, race, sex. Peace and good will to all men and women. And holiday cheer!  I've written about aged eggnog (that's it above, last year's shot; sorry, didn't want to make Donna work today!), aged for at least three weeks and up to several years (longest I've managed to hang on to it is three years).  This experiment by NPR's Science Friday proves that alcohol takes care of salmonella bacteria over a period of three weeks (and likely all other bacteria that would cause spoilage, thus its ability to age indefinitely).  I've also written about how to make eggnog on the fly ...

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Quail Eggs and When to Show Scale

Quail Egg @440The thing I like about this photo is that you don't know how big this egg is. It could be a huge dinosaur egg because there is nothing to put into perspective. The fibers of the napkin could be of a blanket and the blue is unidentifiable. As Michael said in his blog, the egg measures 1-3/8ths inches high. When I started to photograph these tiny little gems I thought I should put something in the photo to show it's scale, but then felt that I was only putting something in the photo for that purpose—a contrived pairing of objects. There are times when it is necessary because it's useful to know how big something is and you can't, or don't want to, saddle your photo with info. Then, when it is necessary to put a fork or a lemon wedge ...

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Fun with Quail Eggs

Photos by Donna

Photos by Donna

The guy I buy arugula from at our market has a neighbor who raises quail and he brings a few dozen of the eggs each week to sell for his neighbor. I got a batch of each not too long ago (he grows lettuce under plastic well into December).  I've scarcely touched quail eggs.  A couple times in culinary school (garde manger, quail egg and caviar pizza). But they were not something I thought much about.  That's changed. If they’re available to you (I'm told you can often find them at Asian markets) they’re a lot of fun, special because of their size, and easy to work with.

Fried quail egg on arugula, bacon, English muffin croutons and Hollandaise

Fried quail egg on arugula, bacon, English muffin  ...<p class=Click to Continue Reading

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The Sous Vide Supreme

SEG_0025@440

Photos by Donna

Last year, The French Laundry Cookbook Team, published Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide, a book spearheaded by per se chef de cuisine Jonathon Benno and featuring the dishes of him, his French Laundry counterpart Corey Lee, and Thomas Keller.  The book was explicitly geared toward professional chefs (recipes are in metric weights) because this form of cooking was at the time most applicable to restaurant kitchens.  The capacity to cook food sous vide, that is vacuum sealed and submerged in water kept at low precise temperatures, is perfectly suited to the demands of cooking for large numbers because food hit a specific temperature and stays there, no real chance to overcook.  But also the equipment was prohibitively expensive, with chamber vacuum sealers and immersion circulators (the device that heats the water) costing several thousand dollars. This ...

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More Cool Books For Cooks

Page_TheFlavorBibleKaren Page and Andrew Dornenburg have been publishing innovative books about cooking and the chef world for longer than I have. Their popular Becoming a Chef was published the summer I was harrassing the Culinary Institute of America to let me in to write about, well, becoming a chef.  I was mortified they'd beat me to it. It proved to be not just a different book from what I was attempting, but a valuable research tool for me then and throughout the years (its history of American restaurants and chefs with opening dates or significant restaurants is something I've  returned to throughout the years).  It remains a valuable book especially for people considering entering the profession. Their most recent book, The Flavor Bible, published last year was one I kept hearing about.  Finally I got around to having a look ...

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Most Exciting Cookbook of 2009

Momofuku - Jacket The most exciting cookbook of the season, to me, is without question, Momofuku, by David Chang and Peter Meehan.   Momofuku combines great cooking and restaurant kitchen photography in the journalistic style I love, recipes and techniques I was eager to learn about (steamed buns, spicy fried chicken), and an intense, passionate narrative by Meehan that captures the distinctive nature of this unusual chef.  My partner in Charcuterie, Brian Polcyn and I were lucky enough to find a seat at Chang's noodle bar this fall and had a fantastic meal.  As soon as I read Momofuku, I bought a copy to send to Brian. I think it's a sad state of affairs that Chang has been getting so much media attention that people have begun to grouse about it.  What I don't like about it is this.  ...

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Composition of Chives and Lighting Set Up

Chives final @440 I've been forcing myself to explore more creative compositions in my shots. I think we all have a first instinct as to how to frame a subject. As we approach it, our minds are deciding overhead vs. low—real tight or backed off to include other elements. With this shot I had been taking some shots when Michael said to me, "I really want to show this",  and he pointed to the little holes at the end of the cut chives. I started getting in real tight, but was losing the length of the full chive, so I tilted the frame to get the most out of the corners. If this shot were not tilted, the rest of the chives wouldn't be there, and if I made sure they were in with a straight frame, I wouldn't be as close as ...

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Ad Hoc Cookbook Giveaway!

Photo by Donna

Photo by Donna

I have two copies of Ad Hoc, signed by Thomas Keller, to give away, courtesy of Artisan (thanks, Amy!)  This is an even more valuable offer than I thought it would be because I see that Amazon is sold out until February, as are many bookstores.  More than 100,000 copies of this book have been printed, with more on the way, making Ad Hoc one of the best selling books of the season.  There's a reason for it: it's a fantastic book, with everything from burgers to bread pudding with leeks to cheesecake, and great discussion of cooking issues and technique from Thomas himself (who would have imagined a chef could be so uncommonly articulate on the page?!).  A few namby pambies in the media have whined that some ...

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Pâte a Choux Photos

DSC_0241 Here is the interior of a gougere, a cheese puff that was made for the video. I like this photo because you can see how it could also be a pastry puff filled with puddings, creams or chocolate. I photographed this for Michael's Ratio book which ran in B&W. Below is a photo of pets de nonne (nun's farts). Little donuts sprinkled with confectioners sugar. DSC_0046

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