Monthly Archives: December 2009

Excellent Cooked Eggnog Recipe
and Happy New Year!

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: December 31, 2009

Photo by Donna, cooked eggnog with meringue and nutmeg

Photo by Donna, cooked eggnog with meringue and nutmeg

I'm so pleased with results of the cooked eggnog I wrote for the last post, I wanted to give an official tested recipe.  Don't misunderstand me.  I'm a fan of raw egg eggnog, as well as aged-for-two-years raw eggnog. I don't believe anyone should be afraid of eating raw egg (especially if you buy organic or well-raised eggs).  Raw yolk on raw ground beef is a delight, a kind of ready made sauce. I love a homemade mayo, a runny poached egg.  Indeed, raw or warm egg is one of the great pleasures of cooking and eating.  So here's to lots of eggs in 2010—may more of them be laid by healthy happy chickens! But there are those who may ...

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Merry Christmas
and Happy Holidays To All

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: December 25, 2009

Photo by Donna

Photo by Donna

Linus said it simply enough: "Peace and good will toward men.  That's what Christmas is all about Charlie Brown."  Regardless of faith, race, sex. Peace and good will to all men and women. And holiday cheer!  I've written about aged eggnog (that's it above, last year's shot; sorry, didn't want to make Donna work today!), aged for at least three weeks and up to several years (longest I've managed to hang on to it is three years).  This experiment by NPR's Science Friday proves that alcohol takes care of salmonella bacteria over a period of three weeks (and likely all other bacteria that would cause spoilage, thus its ability to age indefinitely).  I've also written about how to make eggnog on the fly ...

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Quail Eggs and When to Show Scale

By Donna Turner Ruhlman | Published: December 21, 2009

Quail Egg @440The thing I like about this photo is that you don't know how big this egg is. It could be a huge dinosaur egg because there is nothing to put into perspective. The fibers of the napkin could be of a blanket and the blue is unidentifiable. As Michael said in his blog, the egg measures 1-3/8ths inches high. When I started to photograph these tiny little gems I thought I should put something in the photo to show it's scale, but then felt that I was only putting something in the photo for that purpose—a contrived pairing of objects. There are times when it is necessary because it's useful to know how big something is and you can't, or don't want to, saddle your photo with info. Then, when it is necessary to put a fork or a lemon wedge ...

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Fun with Quail Eggs

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: December 21, 2009

Photos by Donna

Photos by Donna

The guy I buy arugula from at our market has a neighbor who raises quail and he brings a few dozen of the eggs each week to sell for his neighbor. I got a batch of each not too long ago (he grows lettuce under plastic well into December).  I've scarcely touched quail eggs.  A couple times in culinary school (garde manger, quail egg and caviar pizza). But they were not something I thought much about.  That's changed. If they’re available to you (I'm told you can often find them at Asian markets) they’re a lot of fun, special because of their size, and easy to work with.

Fried quail egg on arugula, bacon, English muffin croutons and Hollandaise

Fried quail egg on arugula, bacon, English muffin ...<p class=Click to Continue Reading

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The Sous Vide Supreme

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: December 17, 2009

SEG_0025@440

Photos by Donna

Last year, The French Laundry Cookbook Team, published Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide, a book spearheaded by per se chef de cuisine Jonathon Benno and featuring the dishes of him, his French Laundry counterpart Corey Lee, and Thomas Keller.  The book was explicitly geared toward professional chefs (recipes are in metric weights) because this form of cooking was at the time most applicable to restaurant kitchens.  The capacity to cook food sous vide, that is vacuum sealed and submerged in water kept at low precise temperatures, is perfectly suited to the demands of cooking for large numbers because food hit a specific temperature and stays there, no real chance to overcook.  But also the equipment was prohibitively expensive, with chamber vacuum sealers and immersion circulators (the device that heats the water) costing several thousand dollars. This ...

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