FAT IS GOOD
(unless you finish it with a cigarette chaser and your left anterior descending is 90 percent blocked from a lifetime of giddy indulgence and bad genes)
The two coastal heavyweight papers both open with pork belly today. Bruni writes of fat happy times in the metropolis (we knew this already but it’s great to see it reaching the so a la mode city folk), and the sage Russ Parsons writes about the glories of DIY yakitori. Perhaps he saw my euphoric description of my first yakitori experience (rare chicken hearts! grilled knee bones!). I’m skeptical though about briefly grilling any old pork belly quickly. Tasty no doubt, but it must be awfully tough. I’ll bet it’s more unctuous and satisfying tender off the grill, which would require some sort of precooking. Not that I’m doubting the redoubtable Russ—I’ve tried that before and it never works. He also writes about something that gives me a pang of jealousy that I don’t live in the land of milk and honey—fresh garbonzo beans.
I write about the fat tipping point, also opening with a pork belly anecdote, in the current issue of restaurant hospitality (but the slackers don’t have it up yet that I can find—Sanson! Get off your ass, you’re losing readers!)
Countering all this FAT JOY, is a chef restaurateur’s story in the washpost about changing his diet after a heart attack. Alas, we do have to pay attention to blood cholesterol (but not so much to food cholesterol—waiter, more eggs please!) Happily, even this paper, manages to slip in a pork belly story.
All hail the pig!