Among the happiest moments of the year are when the air and soil are hot enough to plant herbs, and so I go out into my little patch of soil along the back kitchen wall, and I plant my tarragon, the greatest of all herbs. THE GREATEST OF ALL HERBS. Parsley’s a work horse (misused and underrated). Thyme is lovely, pretty, delicate. Doris Day to tarragon’s Sophia Loren. I don’t grow a lot of herbs, the fines herbes, sage, basil (and oregano and mint that won’t stop growing). But the one I rely on most is tarragon. Tarragon and roast chicken, tarragon and butter, tarragon and fish, tarragon and beef, tarragon and eggs, gorgeous, seductive tarragon. It’s a perennial, but I always lose it to the Cleveland winters. So each spring new plants go in, and the day is filled with promise.