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TOP CHEF: Observations and Comments by Anthony Bourdain
I offer my completely unsolicited, unaffiliated opinions on some of the Top Chef contestants. I think the judging has been solid. And here’s why:
Elia: A solid cook. Technically skilled, resourceful, yet conservative. She consistently made the "smartest" menu choices when faced with a challenge–even when it cost her with the judges. Good qualities in a professional. Her soup on the episode I judged, tasted very good–the best all-around dish (if boring). Falling back on a familiar flavor spectrum during the hideous Hawaii challenge doomed her. But the result looked appetizing. Chef material? Not just yet. Why not? Her insistence on making everything to order "a la minute" during the "Hollywood cocktail party" was a really bush league move. And the "I quit" business–same episode. (Leaving the line for emotional reasons–unforgivable in a professional kitchen). Everybody who’s ever done a volume passed hors d’oeuvre party knows from painful experience that you have to make compromises. (Half cook that shit in advance!) Drunks want food fast. They want it hot. They want it NOW!
Mikey: Easily the guy who I’d most like to hang out with. The contestant most like me. And a lifer line dog. Technical skills? Crude. Chef material? Not a leader. Not a decision maker. And WAY too friendly with everybody. No killer instinct. Let this guy run a kitchen and the food and booze would be running out the back door with his cooks–who he’d probably be drinking with. That said? I love this kid. There would have been a place for him in nearly every kitchen I ever ran. Probably the grill. (Don’t let this Manimal NEAR saute!!) I was delighted he made it as far as he did. And it’s a measure of Mikey’s general magnificence that all the other contestants loved the guy, would never talk smack about him behind his back, covered for him, helped him, carried him–and even defended him loudly to me–in the face of laughably abominable, embarrassing McFunsters–level offerings from him that week. Note that no one EVER tried to throw Mikey under the bus. I want to adopt this guy. And I wish him well.
Betty: Forget about. Very limited skills–and it showed.
Cliff: VERY solid cook. And will definitely be a solid chef as well. He crossed the line Big Time with the Marcel incident and he knew it. He deserved to get canned, would have been canned–and surely sued–in any professional situation where he behaved similarly. Period. A moot point as he clearly had the least good dish that episode anyway. He’ll learn. He’ll move on. He’ll succeed. No doubt. I agree with those who suggest that it would have been fair if EVERYBODY involved in the "full-Nelson incident" had been kicked off the show. The event reflected most poorly on Ilan. Who came off as an instigator–and a weasel. It would have been appropriate for him to have stepped up and thrown himself on his sword when Cliff got canned. Wouldn’t (and shouldn’t) have saved Cliff–but it would have been the Right Thing to do. Instead, he behaved like a punk and let the black man take the fall. It was sickening to see him stand silently by while Cliff took the full freight. Notice that Cliff kept his mouth shut, blamed no one else, took his jolt like a man.
Alex: Nice guy. And back in the minor leagues–where he should have stayed. He was in over his head from Day One. Two hours making a salad? And a lousy one at that? Bye bye. I see a successful future in catering.
Sam: Probably the closest thing to Chef material this season–with the most chefly demeanor and attitude (generally speaking). Though not the strongest craftsman (though very close to it), he was the best all-around cook–generally smart, consistent, with good technical skills. He managed to stay on the fringes of the worst behaviors, generally showed the kind of low ego, low maintenance attitude a cook should have at this point in his career. He helped others, took responsibility for his actions, didn’t blame or explain when things went sour and consistently showed leadership qualities. Most likely to succeed–meaning he shall surely find the balance between leadership and culinary excellence in future. If you were going to invest in one contestant as a chef/business partner, Sam would be your guy.
And the finalists:
Marcel: Diagnosis: Is there ANYTHING this guy doesn’t want to foam? So slavishly devoted to what Ferran Adria was doing TEN YEARS AGO it’s….scary and sad. This is a very talented kid–with enormous potential for culinary artistry and he’s got BIG balls. He consistently took more chances and was more creative than any one else on the show. His range of knowledge and techniques was wider than the rest. But he’s dangerously blind to the fact that much of his stuff was "over" years ago. He has a superb eye for presentation. But his Chef potential? Presently zero. You have to get along with the people you work with–and I can’t imagine this guy "working with others" over time. He’s petty, vindictive, immature, a loudmouth, not a team player by any stretch of the imagination. And it’s all about Him. I can’t imagine him ever running a kitchen that actually makes its food cost percents–or appeals to the public–as Marcel would likely be too busy celebrating his own perceived brilliance on the plate. He deserves to be in the final two. If he can ever pull back his food to what TASTES good FIRST–and pull his head out of his ass, there’s hope. Otherwise? He’s got a future as food blogger. Suggested Treatment: Put Marcel in a three star Michelin kitchen where he actually works on a day-to-day basis with someone like Robuchon (not in an outpost), or Gordon Ramsay. He needs a great chef–who he respects–to smash his ego and break down any delusions of grandeur–day by day, every day, dismantling his personality until he learns how to FEED people food that gives them pleasure. Being a great chef is about first knowing what gives people pleasure. And caring about that. (Like Thomas Keller, for instance.) Marcel strikes me as the sort of knucklehead/creative "genius" who insists on "educating the public" instead of finding new ways to please and delight and surprise them. There’s nothing pleasing or surprising about foam anymore. He’s NOT Ferran Adria. He’s NOT Grant Achatz. He’s NOT Wylie Dufresne. Nor is he anywhere in their league. Adria’s cooking is (underneath the novelty) soulful. And that’s what’s missing from Marcel’s food. His tormentors were right about one thing: he needs to get laid. And the Astro-Boy haircut is a liability in the kitchen–where co-workers and subordinates will identify him as a fucktard from Day One. Any cook who spends that much time on their hair is going to have a hard row to hoe. And any chef will sporting a Wolverine-Do will be the object of behind their back derision and mockery. Marcel has a LOT of growing up to do. A chef needs respect. A chef must be able to delegate. A chef needs to run a kitchen that actually turns a profit. I can’t see Marcel doing any of those things.
Ilan:
Though a very strong cook, I was surprised to see him get this far. And at this point, I suspect, he’ll go all the way. I would have guessed Sam for Most Likely To Win–but maybe, in the wake of last season’s Harold win, Sam suffered from fear of charges of Too Much Hunkitude. Okay: So Ilan cribs his offerings shamelessly from Andy Nusser. And he’s a manipulative, conspiratorial, vindictive, weasely little shit….(Hardly impediments to a career as a chef). These are classic assets. If Ilan has a fatal flaw, it’s that he let Marcel get up his nose so easily and predictably. And that when he (again and again) conspired to sabotage or screw over his enemy–either directly or through surrogates, he was both obviously behind it–his fingerprints all over the place, and worse–FAR worse–unsuccessful! That his food was derivative is no dishonor. Smart chefs must first know what their strengths and weaknesses are. And who to steal from. He did both well. He DID manage to get others to do his dirty work (if ineptly). Also a useful skill. If not the most admirable of young men–it is certainly well within reason to imagine him as a successful chef who serves good food at a profit.
I’ve found myself manipulated into feeling sorry for Marcel by the constant carping on him from the other contestants. I’m sure that’s the result of a lot of careful editing, but I hate to see even the most obnoxious person dogpiled. That said, I agree that a: he needs to step away from the foams and b: he is very self-centered while simultaneously showing a lack of empathy for other people or genuine love for the food. When I’m yelling, “Go cry, emo kid” at the TV, there’s something wrong. And for once, it’s not with me. *G*
Goodness. Ruhlman opens his home and then his blog — the consummate host!
Great to see your rundown on the contestants, Tony. I’ve been fascinated by the show, and it’s delightful to see your insider comments.
Maybe Marcel can go straight from Top Chef to commis on Ramsay’s “The F Word”…
I thought the final two would be Sam and Elia…
I spent most of the series thinking Ilan was the mature, silent type. Oops.
And Marcel…not so bad, really. Just young and completely devoid of people skills. He could learn. But if he wins, he probably won’t.
Good point, WG. The best thing in the world for Marcel as a chef would be for him to lose.
I was sort of unpleasantly surprised by the maturity level of most of the contestants at some point in the series. I work with preschoolers and at one time or another, most of the contestants reminded me of them, except with better bladder control (I’m assuming.)
Kal, I would pay good money to see Marcel in Ramsay’s hands. I think it would be very good for Marcel, though it might turn Ramsay’s hair gray in a single episode.
No offense intended to you and your wry and insightful critiques, but these “cooktainment” shows give me the yawns when I’m stoked and, in drooling moments of indolence, find me thumbing through Bartlett’s for the name of the proto-Nazi who wrote “When I hear the word culture, I release the safety of my Browning.”
(I see it was Hans Jost).
But hey, anyone up for making a little poolish? What say we pitch a new reality cooking show to be called “The Stagiare?”
The star will be a famous and sagacious master chef who challenges a group of very hot twenty-somethings to compete for the chance for a stage in one of his fabulously successful restaurants. Now I can’t imagine anyone better for the lead role than the fellow who one clever observer has given the nickname “Ewok.”
When Ewok wants to eliminate someone he calls them all into the walkin-in freezer and provokes them to insult each other until one of them starts to whine. Now Ewok shakes his fist at the whiner and says “Bam! You’re 86′d”
Anybody?
I would’ve liked to see Sam instead of Ilan in the final two, but it’ll be fun to see what Ilan and Marcel do to each other during the final.
What kind of crack house ARE they running at Top Chef?
What about the brouhaha all over the internet that the Marcel head-shaving incident did not occur as presented on Bravo? Footage of Marcel stomping down the hall to escape Sam CLEARLY shows Elia sitting on the floor with a full head of hair.
You can see this at Amuse-Biatch:
http://amuse-biatch.blogspot.com/2007/01/amuse-biatch-readers-say-grab-reynolds.html
http://bp1.blogger.com/_aymCYbZEEBE/RbeVoMvgb3I/AAAAAAAAAkk/oqnTPAKKtVQ/s1600-h/elia3iu3.jpg
(There are spoilers on that blog, so skim at your own risk.)
May I add that I think Tom should be the host of the show. So far Billy Joel’s wife and Padma have been completely useless and void of any personality.
I have a good name for Marcel’s food blog: “Foaming at the Mouth.”
ENjoyed this post.
I was really bummed to see Sam go – I think Colicchio gave him the thumbs down because neither of his two dishes in the Hawaii semi-finals were, techncally, cooked – I thought for sure Sam would win.
Even though a known agent provocateur, I’d still rather see Ilan win than Marcel. Marcel needs not to work as a Ramsay commis, but a Robuchon commis. Any man who could make Ramsay cry is the one to truly beat Marcel into shape – I bet Ripert would agree.
Ooh, yes, Tana, I’d thought about that. To me, that gives the whole thing a HUGELY different spin.
I think Rocco should replace Padma.
Also, I don’t recall Alex on the show…did you mean Carlos?
Lets all get off our high horses, certainly Marcel’s behaviour doesnt help his case as a likeable character.
HOWEVER….critisising him for making foams and his other Gums strikes me as highly hypocritical especially when statements like “he’s NOT Ferran Adria, Wylie Dufresne or Grant Achatz”
The fact is Grant and Wylie arent Ferran Adria either but nobody complains. Virtually all “innovations” supposedly coming out of WD50 and Alinea’s kitchens are ALL derivatives of Ferran Adria’s work, Other spanish cookbooks, visits to Madrid Fusion ect ect. Sure they certainly put there spin on it but it isnt original thought.
Neither is Sabayon or demiglace, “it’s all been done before 10 years ago” isnt sound criticism when the people you profess to praise like Dufresne and achatz are doing the same thing.
If we want to say Marcel sucks, say so but please be a man and dont hide it behind the flawed rationale of copying Adria when all the other American “molecular gastronomists” you are praising are doing exactly the same damn thing.
Wow. In one visit to the Top Chef set, you’ve got Marcel’s whole psychological profile figured out–including his sex life? Amazing! Or are you just taking the word of all the other cooks who have been ganging up on him all season? That’s what I’m guessing.
If what you say about him is true, it isn’t showing up on my tv screen.
Nice commentary. It’s been a fascinating season, and I’ve been pretty surprised by a lot of the cuts that were made when they were. I think, in the case of Michael particularly, and Sam most recently, that cuts were made not based on a chef’s performance or the food they gave this week, but the drama of keeping one person on or off.
And that’s pretty clear in the first part of the finale episode–I agree with you that Sam should have been in the final two, and I was quite shocked that he wasn’t. It felt like Colicchio came up with an excuse to cut him–what, that’s not cooking? Please. Cooking is not solely the application of heat, and Colicchio knows this. It was bullshit excuse. And I think you’re right, too, that the judges/producers were more concerned with how similar to Harold Sam was, from a television-character point of view (which, really, is all we the audience have). But there’s something worth noting from that too–perhaps, in the frame of this competition, the sort of chef that Harold is, that Sam will likely one day be, is what a Top Chef really is. I think it’s pretty telling, and also I think it’s true to the idea of chefhood the show’s narrative is trying to convey.
I almost think it would have been more interesting to keep Sam and Marcel on for the final two, not in the least because it sets up a similar dynamic to the previous year’s contest. But I can see why the producers went with Ilan and Marcel–the animosity had been there from day one, and it was hardly a secret that they rubbed each other the wrong way, and it’s good television to play on that animosity. Elia, really, wouldn’t have made it into the top two. At the end of it, she was too unstable and uncertain, in her cooking and in the kitchen. You never knew when she was going to go crazy, and while a little crazy adds spice to any kitchen, the constant attitude of giving up and saying fuck it was not going to get her to the end–though it did get her very far.
Marcel…truth or no, what we have of him is on our screen. And while the audience should nod to the fact that what we’re seeing is a very carefully constructed narrative, with a lot of edits and cuts, it’s not like the producers gave him a script to read on how to act. (Unless they did and he was a plant all along!) That’s him, that’s his attitude, that’s him fucking around with other people. And when nearly every person in the competition wanted to thwap him, even Elia at the end of it, well. That pretty much cements him as a twat. I dearly hope he doesn’t win.
Anthony – How well do you know Marcel except by what you’ve seen onscreen? Or is ‘nice guy’ Sam putting words in your mouth?
Wow, I’ve lost respect for Mr. Bordain – he speculates a lot and conveniently overlooks all of Sam’s excuses his HUGE EGO (as in if chef so and so would have served watermelon in hot asiago cream sauce it would be HUGE).
Not going to watch your travel/cooking show again Mr. Bordain – you should have stayed out of it.
I hate pickles (and that isn’t just referring to Sam’s dishes but that wizened old man at the top of this article).
I agree with “Former fan”. THis guy spent 1 day with these chefs, and watched them on a television show, and now you can speak confidently about all of their characters?
Please.
I hope Marcel wins. Watching this show is like watching “Lord of the Flies”. I am rooting for “Piggy”! Wish Betty would fall off a cliff.
Thanks Sue, for spoiling the last episode.
“Winning and elimination decisions were made by the judges in consultation with the producers. Some elimination decisions were discussed with Bravo.”
In other words, even though Marcel is a complete knob, Marcel and Ilan will pull the biggest ratings. Simple as that.
Bravo is such a joke. Ilan is a nasty little weasel. Is he leader material? Egging on people to harm someone. What is Bravo thinking? All the others are brainless followers. I think Marcel will go far without Bravos money. Good Luck & Best Wihes Marcel.
That’s exactly it, Nick. When it gets right down to it, this is TV, and they want the ending that will draw the most viewers. They’ve been building Marcel v. Ilan for the past few eps. I always figured Marcel would be in the top two, just because he was on the outs with just about everyone at one time or another. I’m just glad they didn’t decide on a Marcel v. Betty grudgematch!
I’m a little surprised to see all the vitriol being directed at Bourdain for this post, but then, everyone’s entitled to their own views.
Eek, I hope the leak is wrong, but then today I read a story saying that he just quit his job.
Does the leak outright say that he won?
No. It was about him quitting his job. Hmm Maybe he felt free to quit his job cause he lost? Maybe he quit and left town? I don’t know. Just know that I love Marcel. No matter what,Marcel will be alright. He is a Top Chef!
Hey Michael! I think you need a disclaimer when allowing guest bloggers that the views expressed are the views of the guest and do not neccesarily reflect those of the owner of the blog, even if Tony is perhaps more qualified than most to judge.
i’m not sure anymore WHAT that guy is qualified to do, except to run his big mouth, a sport he excels at. needless to say, the views of the nefarious bourdain and my humble self could not be more opposed. (except when it comes to fine food and drink, of course.)
Someone mentioned Rocco should replace Padma….
Who else should replace her? Maybe Anthony can stick another gig in his pocket.
An earlier response disappeared into the ether, but I’d like to add that Marcel deserves a lot of respect for simply having the strength to hang in there–in the face of relentless, naked hostility. It’s an admirable character trait that will serve him well in the business. I’ll stress again that he clearly deserves to be in the top two. Bottom line for me was: Do I want to eat his food? And: Would I ever want to hire the guy?
I base my judgements/opinions, btw, solely on close viewing of every episode, on nearly 30 years as a chef/manager/employer and ONLY one day as an actual judge who ate the contestants’ food. Fair comment above.
And it was “Carlos” NOT “Alex”. Apologies to the departed.
Thanks…as usual you comments or right on the money! Love this show and having you on it!
for the record, no comments are being removed from this post–this is tony’s post and he’s free to monitor it as he wishes. provided he can lay off the schnapps for five minutes.
Maybe he was going through drunken hallucinations when he left the phantom post earlier.
If Tony is the ‘Lou Reed’ of the culinary world, then Marcel is the George Michael (Wham days), Ilan is the ‘John Lydon’ and Sam is ‘Bruce Springstein’. Ruhlman, who are you? Robert Quine (Lou’s lead guitar player)?
So the bullying punk beat the disco kid.
Sorry Ruhlman, John Cale would be a better analogy. Always bickering with Lou, but occasionally collaborating to create masterpieces. Oh, and very cool.
I’ll shut up.
Now, now…this is TEEVEE, folks. Watching an Ilan/Marcel final is, in a way, kinda like watching Bourdain chow down on warthog rectum. We might not make those choices ourselves, but we sure as hell are going to watch.
Bourdain, you should look up Mikey when you’re here in central California next month.
You might give him a job in your kitchen, but according to recent interviews Mike’s given, his most recent employer won’t. Pretty f#@ked up, if you ask me. He seems to be taking it in stride though, as seems to be his style, and says he is selling real estate instead of cooking. But still….grrrr.
Mr. Bourdain… I enjoyed your take on the show and your analysis of the contestants. Well, all of your stuff in general.
I would have put money that the final two would have been Sam and Cliff. They seemed to be the most consistent and skillful.
Even though its a TV show, Marcel got bonked in the head with a bottle in Vegas by some drunken broad. That’s crazy.
I’m also bummed that Bravo didn’t have a reunion show as a warm-up for the finale. It would have been a terrific “Battle Royale” or in modern terms a “Royal Rumble”.
I would also watch the show where Marcel and Andrew (The season 1 snob) are broken-in by Gordon Ramsay – “Hell’s Kitchen Professionl Chef Edition”
I’ve only recently gotten into watching Ramsay’s “The F Word” on BBC America. But from my limited viewings I gather “broken like a rented mule” would be more accurate than “broken-in.”
But hell yeah, I’d watch that.
Maybe I should change my nick to “voyeur.” Yikes.
Mr. Bourdain: Fair enough, you have more than enough credentials to judge the contestants on the quality of their food. My point was that to judge the characters of various people who have been removed from their lives, and stuck in close quarters with people they dislike, is not such a simple tas. I highly doubt the episodes shown fairly demonstrate the true characters of any of the chefs. Once again, I did not mean to insinuate that you are not qualified to judge their cooking, because you are, but their characters is another thing. Disclaim it as speculation, because thats all it really is.
I guess the point here is to remember the old cliche, opinions are like assholes, everybody has one.
This conversation is funny and a lot like listening to a bunch of old people bickering about what to have for lunch.
That said, I’m taking Bourdain’s side, if for no other reason than that most of his detractors are a so wound up that their ability to parse reasoned objections to his critiques makes them sound like a bunch of angry laboratory monkeys.
Shame on all of you for letting yourselves get so worked up about a bunch of poseurs on a TV show!
And Michael, kudos to you for inviting Tony to post here. I know you are too polite to acknowledge this, let alone know it, but your decision has harvested a bumper crop of attention.
Bob, getting worked up about a bunch of poseurs on a TV show keeps me from having to get a real life!
Hi Tony and Michael,
Chef-wise, it should’ve been Sam and Cliff.
Television-wise, congratulations to the producers – they cast the Marcel-Ilan drama impeccably. Bonus points for making the axing of Sam feel plausible.
BTW Sam brings up a good point in his podcast exit interview on Chow (full-disclosure – I write for Chow): Why did Tom Colicchio bust Sam’s balls for Marcel-gate but then Colicchio goes on to say he didn’t give a fuck about what happens off the plate?
At this point, I’d rather see Wolverine Boy win, not that it really matters.
More importantly, I hope both boys get enough out of this – and I mean cold hard cash – to disappear into the real world. Surviving a few years passed around as the bee-yotch in great kitchens could truly make them Top Chefs.
Anthony Bourdain is an amazing chef and been in the business long enough to judge the chefs.
Very nice read,
chef biatch
http://www.bloggingtopchef.blogspot.com/
Mr. Bourdain:
I wish you’d put your additional comments re Marcel into the blog in the first place, instead of into the comments section where they’re less likely to be seen. As for the Carlos/Alex mistake, I’d thought you were deliberately implying he wasn’t memorable enough to get his name right.
As for Ilan, I’m not sure what’s so admirable about him being a “vindictive, weasely little shit”. I can’t imagine you’d want someone so unprofessional in your kitchen.
Now that someone has brought up assholes…for me the best part of the show (as a former cook) is that almost every variety of asshole chef I’ve ever worked with/for was represented among the contestants and the judges.
I agree that Padma should be replaced, but by Tom? Was he always making faces or did the editors have a special “Tom smirking snarkily” tape loop?
I agree with Chef Bourdain’s comments here and am a big fan of his writing, if not his television shows (I even read Typhoid Mary). But all that grandmotherly headshaking during the Thanksgiving episode!
“Grandmotherly headshaking”, Working Girl? What I remember most from the TG episode was Tony looking (to borrow his own phrase) like a stunned trout when Betty said she “didn’t do cutting edge.” First, the totally gobsmacked reaction, then the current of annoyance as he sat back, wordless. Well, yeah, then there was the priceless “Flinstonian execution” (!)
And Eatforfun, I second your great idea – there should be a Hell’s Professional Kitchen with the top misfits/”villains” from both HK and Top Chef – not just Marcel and Andrew, but remember Stephen “Top Sommelier” from this past HK?
Michael, thanks for drying out Tony long enough to get him to guest blog (!), and Tony – thanks for the TC blog, seriously. I really wanted to know what an unbiased chef with no allegiance to Bravo or the show’s producers, storyline or ratings thought about the chefs, purely from a food standpoint. Since Ripert does not appear to blog anywhere, we only have your perceptions to go on, and I think they were fair enough (considering we can’t taste the food).
As for Ilan being a weasel . . . well, he may be, but I think your point was that being a weasel and good at subterfuge is no handicap to being hired as a cook in any restaurant, is all – not that being a weasel is an admirable quality or the FIRST one you look for in a line cook.
For the record, I would also venture that while Former Fan might perceive Mr. Bourdain as “wizened”, I would rather suggest that he is only lightly leathery – like fine nubeck! And, as Tony knows, I’ve been close enough to make that judgment. (“Like BUH-tah!”)
Thanks for weighing in on Top Chef – it is so great to get some insight from someone who actually has the expertise and personal experience to comment on what we have seen thus far… I agree that Sam was best “all-around”, but I guess it came down to what the Bravo execs figured would render the highest ratings. What a shame.
ps. You’re the best, Tony. We absolutely love your show and never miss an episode.
anyone who side with Marcel is first of all wrong, and second not an experienced cook/chef. This guy had WEASEL written all over him from day one, just look at that damn hair. I could never see this guy managing a team, or being a leader, he will probably end up being a chef for Seigfreid… or Roy.
Tony- love the show, and your work- it was great to meet you randomly on the street in Brklyn….
I think your comments are right on the money…love seeing your take on the show.I’m a huge fan and never miss No Reservations-well done!
It is my firm belief that, all (but one) of the contestants should be force-fed under-barbecued wart hog colon — and then relocated to forever reside in Crawford, Texas: as well as forced into indentured servitude at the nearest Wal-mart, at said location.
Hey working girl… you’re right. I was thinking about Stephen “Top Sommelier” when I typed Andrew.
Also, if they replace Padma, I think they should get Paula Abdul. At least her meltdowns at the judging table would give something different, plus added entertainment value, than just judges nodding their heads with Mona Lisa half-smiles. I guess those are called smirks.
Maybe they should have some “average joe” judges… This is Jake a Steelworker judging the Poke. Jake what do you think?
“Well… I don’t know about this raw fishbait. I’ve never seen beans grown in the sea. Is that like Chicken of the Sea?”
It’s funny, Eatforfun: THats actually a great idea. There should be someone who has no idea except for what tastes good, and what doesn’t.. I dont think they will do it, but they should.
People are killing me with the Marcel sucks B.S. The guy can cook so why can everybody else bust his balls during the show but the second he stands up for himself and digs them back he’s a asshole.The guy has talent so do some others Sam and Elia.Ilan I’m sorry is just a cook.I can create his masterpieces with a George Foreman grill.Anthony great show you added Ghana to places I will visit in my lifetime.Yes,Ilan will win why because “he has soul”…yech!
Upon reading it again, I am more appalled – lots of harsh words regarding the personalities of snaky smarmy Ilan and “petty immature loudmouth” (in quotes because I do not agree with m. bordain) Marcel but no call outs for Betty the shrill shrew or Elia the cyrbaby, backstabbing queeter. WTF is up with that?
M. Bordain – f this is going to be a character assisination at least give equal due to all contestants.
Oh and about Marcel’s hair – y’all obviously are not up on the styles these days – the welcome back kotter hairdo is all the rage these days (I know my nephew has a similar do). Further proof of the bandwagon jumping – one person bashes the hair and suddenly all the out of touch do as well. Anthony go watch the bands on MTV and allow yourself to be educated on popular culture.
Travis: no-ones saying Marcel can’t cook – just that he needs to adjust his attitude in order to function effectively in a high pressure environment.
former Fan: Adjectives that describe immature behaviour.
BTW, & off track, Imagine if Bourdain, Ruhlman et al were on this show. Urghhh…messy…homocide? Not to mention all manners of devious, sneaky, anonymous practical jokes. A bloodied finger tucked into Colicchio’s salad, or some hideous, rotting protein placed under Marcel’s pillow. Now that’s good television!
I had hoped it would be a best of the best, bro vs. bro showdown of sorts with Sam & Ilan…but there has to be a villain…enter Marcel. I’d personally like to see him and last season’s “Top Sommelier” in a steel cage match to see who can out bitch slap the other. And honestly…molecular gastronomy? Valid yes, but this was supposed to be about cooking with food..not erecting a chemistry set in your kitchen. If I want chemicals that I cannot spell or pronounce, I’ll hit up Taco Bell or but out a can of Chef Boyardee. If I want a chef then I want actual food.
Posted by: Joe Bayley
anyone who side with Marcel is first of all wrong, and second not an experienced cook/chef. This guy had WEASEL written all over him from day one, just look at that damn hair.
One of the stupidist comments I’ve read on the internet. Ever.
Marcel is EVIL because he has funky hair…
I like marcel (he’s young…he’ll learn and likely cut his hair). Ilan, meanwhile, is a prick, and embodies everything you said of marcel (but hides it better and is a ruthless, projecting prick to boot!).
Most people are too tough and bashful when it comes to Marcel. Put yourself in his shoes for a minute. He’s got balls – His assertiveness is really the only thing ‘on his side’ throughout the season (except for Elia at times). Imagine being ganged up on…the normal thing to do would be to run, but I know Marcel and he isn’t a runner.
He is super creative and really thinks about his plates. Good job Marcel – I hope you kick Ilan’s ass.
PS – when everyone wears the same damn thing in the kitchen, hair, tats, your chops and only a few other things set your “style” apart from other cooks. Why can’t he express himslef? Have you seen WD’s chops? (bad ass!) I bet even Bourdain and Ruhlman had some crazy hair or chops at one point…
Ore, it’s good to hear from someone who actually knows Marcel. I’ve vacillated all season between feeling bad for him because everyone decided he was going to be the outcast this season, and wanting to reach into the TV and smack him myself. I mean, everyone’s got their good points and their bad points, and the creative editing kind of obscures that. Sometimes, though, it almost seemed like he was playing to that image too, like, “well, if you’ve decided that’s who I am, then fine, that’s what you get.”
I’m still kind of disappointed that Bravo has continued to gloss over the fact that Ilan and Ilia only shaved their heads *after* the attempted shaving of Marcel. To me, that changes it from, “haha we’re doing something wacky, let’s try to get Marcel to do it too” to “oh shit, we’re going to be in trouble unless we make it look like we weren’t singling him out to get hazed.”
Er, Elia, not Ilia. I can spell, really.
So nice to see Anthony Bourdain cut to the chase regarding the skills and personalities of Top Chef. Bourdain’s experience of working up through the ranks allows him prescient insight in to what it takes, and, what one needs to be to get there.
As a patron of Roubochon (Las Vegas and where Marcel learned his skills) I was impressed with technique much like one is impressed by people who can solve a Rubik’s cube blindfolded. There’s genius there somewhere but I’m not sure its making my food taste better. Custards over caviar, and the foam . . . made think I was hunting for a spittle bug.
As a former line cook and sous chef, I would certainly take a position under Sam or Cliff and even Elia. Marcel and Ilan need maturity in various capacities although they are skilled.
That seems to beg the question: for the show Top Chef, How does one define Chef? Is it specific like Collichio demands – “He didn’t cook anything”, is it technique, is it flavor profiles, or who do think would make the most succesful chef running their own restaurant?
Again, Tony thank you for your post. Anytime I read your work I long to be back in the kitchen until I remember smelling garlic and fish oils oozing from my drunken pores at four-o’clock in the morning and putting on five-day old chef pants to start a Friday service. Long live the noble people who toil in a hot, sweaty obscurity to bring us fine food.
Chef, I just wanted to drop a note saying that you should take over as host next year. It’s the only way to save the show. The best weeks for comments on my own site during this period was when you were on. The people are demanding you! Hopefully the producers will pony up the cash and you’ll throw away a few weeks of your life for them.
Ilan vs. Marcel = Anti-hero vs. Anti-hero. That’s not compelling television.
I think that those of you who are bashing Marcel’s hair are forgetting a most important point: without that big hair, he would have a super tiny little head!
someone mentioned Rocco should replace Padma.
people, Rocco should apply as a contestant. now that’ll really get Bravo some ratings.
chef – you rock, your wit, charm, talent, candor, and intelligence all on a par with those who are the best at what they do.
however, your bad knees and aching back aside — and you know well enough you’re not alone in these health woes, and there are those in more strenuous occupations — all of these chefs (whether of the celebrity, student or novice variety), are still doing what you used to do: namely, cooking.
will you ever return to what you so fiercely defend as the last great meritocracy (which it isn’t) or will you continue to be not so unlike Emeril, Tyler et. al.
to cook or not to cook: that is the kitchen.
I just realized something so I had to come back – the only show Anthony was a part of did not have Sam or Ilan cooking for him, they ate with him. So he might have been able to somewhat asses their personalities but he had no real access to Marcel’s and may have been swayed by the jerks with access to Anthony.
Speaking of food, Anthony did you eat Ilan and Sam’s food elsewhere or are you basing your food critiques on what others have said? Just curious.
A couple people have mentioned Rocco as a possible judge.
My only knowledge of him is through the show, “The Restaurant”, where he came off looking pretty bad – more interested in schmoozing and publicity than the food and running a restaurant (being a chef).
Of course, the show is edited like all of these “reality” tv shows so people can look different than in real life.
Anybody care to straighten out any misconceptions I may have of him?
Thanks
marcel was a douchebag but most people were simply attacking him because he was the easiest target.. go back to the beginning episodes and you’ll see them attack him for no reason “i just dont like him” style.. he has handled this mis-treatment well…
why dont they have any decent chefs on that gordon ramsey debacle?
“So he might have been able to somewhat asses their personalities but he had no real access to Marcel’s and may have been swayed by the jerks with access to Anthony.”
Oh please. Mr. Bourdain is judging these people based on what everyone else seas, by watching the show, and 1 day of being a guest judge. from how Marcel is in the show(not in his real life) he can’t see him being a leader in the kitchen or even just getting along with others.
Tony have not seen your ugly mug in Siberia in a long time? Actually the last time I went in there it was gay biker night. What happened to Manhattan? It is a fucking outdoor mall now.
Kharma, bit Marcel’s ass when that bottle cracked his fat head. My one cookie in my kitchen, went to CIA with him. Marcel was one of those ego bloated fellows that stuck around after he graduated to preach his wisdom. To Marcel’s credit my cook said he was helpful and nice at in the classroom. But fuck him. He would get stabbed day one on our line.
So Ilan did win afterall. I wonder if the producers are pissed about him quitting his job days before the finale aired, leading to stories that he won.
Onward to the next Top Chef season.
This analysis of the contestants is spot on. I also felt Ilan (and even Sam to some degree) were sleazy, especially towards their behavior towards Marcel.
I’ve been a fan of Marcel the whole time until I saw him on the aftershow last night and I suddenly understand why he drove the other cheftestants to such extremely negative behaviors. He is maybe the oddest duck I’ve ever seen, very quirky in his mannerisms and the way he styles his speech. He seemed erratic and slightly “off”. The way he was edited on the season only showed this in a very mild, almost loveable way, but now I could absolutely see myself also going a little nutso with him around 24/7.
Bourdain gets under my skin when he spouts his opinions of cooks who make it big and just cook (Rachel Ray, who is not a chef, but has her place).
Other than that, I find him abrasive, but often spot on in his thinking. I have to agree with everything he’s posted here.
I found Marcel to be someone with a big letter V pasted to his back. You can be a victim, or you can suck it up and deal. Did he deserve the drubbing Cliff gave him? I would have called the cops.
Ilan is okay, but did he deserve to win? Not in my opinion, of course no one called me to ask what I thought.
Elia lost her charm for me when she turned on Marcel. If you like the snake, then like the snake. Don’t turn on him and say, “DAY-AM, THERE’S A SNAKE! You just look like a fool.
I liked Cliff, but… Tony said it all.
Dear Former fan: don’t be such a twat. We know! You LOVE Marcel and defend his honor against any and all perceived slight. You’re the biggest and best Marcel fan there is! Now, you’ve been recognized – so go back to the Marcel’s MySpace page.
Mr. Bourdain–
I am a big fan of your writing, though I don’t agree with everything you say. I just find it interesting that you agree that Ilan cobbled his whole meal out of the Casa Mono menu, yet that is more acceptable than someone serving innovative and good food. I also find it interesting that you did not actually eat any of Ilan’s cooking, just Marcel’s, while Ilan et. al. spouted their dislike of him. I understand that someone can be annoying, but judging from this, I can only guess at how biased you became listening to your other chefs. The way Ilan acted was a disgrace, and his food–which I have tasted–is solid comfort food. There is no Top Chef there.
Anthony,
You’ve been out in the bush, smoking too many cigarettes or whatever else you can get your hands on. Marcel is the only one deserving of Top Chef (of the final six), because he’s the only one who didn’t try to backstab someone else. Even your precious “hunk” Sam, was a passive-aggressive bully who I suspect (in concert with Mike (your other best buddy)) deliberately sabotaged Marcel. Don’t try to use the argument that Sam helped Marcel with the fish-less dish. Of course, he did, to cover his tracks. I would never work for any of those losers except for Marcel.
P.S.
How come you never criticize the food on your show? You are so fawning in your praise (in contrast to your alleged tough guy personality), it’s comedic.
Tony, I think you’ve ODd on testosterone or something. Your macho posturing and inane blathering is even worse than usual.
What part of the word “opinion” do you rabid fanboy jackasses not understand? None of these peoples’ egos need defending, and I’m pretty sure none of them are going to call you up begging to suck you off in a bathtub full of chocolate heroin just because you coddled them on some fucking blog–at least not until they show up on a Trivial Pursuit card or “Where Are They Now?” show on VH1 ten years from now.
Mr. Bourdain, very disappointed u r putting Gordon Ramsay on a pedestal for comparison. From the reviews of his New York restaurant, it sounded like the food was solid but that he took no risks and was extremely conventional. I don’t exactly think he is a role model for the Marcel’s of the world. Plus from the few episodes I watched of Hell’s Kitchen, he was just a huge a…..e, not in a good way!!
However, your comments on Betty, touche!!! Your comment on Ilan being a great cook touche!!!
And as much as I attribute the forgotten fish to Mikey, u r right, all the chefs and cooks loved him…….even Marcel…..
Sam…u were there so I accept your opinion but to a viewer he came across as a greasy haired weasel who could only make cold fish appetizers, particularly scallops……
But because of your opinion of Betty I think I will go out and buy your book. You described her so succinctly and the producers played her up so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! She had the most annoying voice and controlling personality for being a cook with so little talent…..please talk to the producers of Bravo what were they thinking giving her so much air time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! In some ways Betty was the female version of Ilan to a degree. Granted Ilan was a much better cook but he just kept repeating recipes that he already knew and never really applied any imagination or thoughts out of the box. Well, to sum it all up, maybe Ilan should use Gordon Ramsay as his role model!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Mr. Bourdain, I respectfully disagree with your assessment of Sam. Sam is a liar and a jerk. I can’t believe he took credit for sea beans being IN Marcel’s final dish. My instinct tells me he tried to sabatoge Marcel and was responsible for the missing fish. For someone who proclaims his humility and affability, he did not take the high road, nor did he portray himself well. He instigated Frank into bullying Marcel. Frank seemed harmless for the most part until his machismo was challenged by Sam. He places himself square in front of Marcel trying to intimidate him with height and girth and yells at him to get out of his face. Does anyone see the irony in that?
I started the show disliking Marcel but all the pettiness and immaturity made me dislike him the LEAST. I hate bullies and Sam was a bully and ringleader and everyone followed his tone because he was portrayed as the “cool kid” as opposed to Marcel’s awkward outcast. That is just so sickening and it really turns me off to pop culture because tv tends to reinforce behavior in society as well as reflect it. If Marcel was so arrogant and obnoxious why is it Sam’s job to outdo him in that department?
Furthermore, the physical assault of Marcel was totally despicable. No one in that room stepped in to say, “this is not right”. People using their bigger size to control a smaller person and force him to the ground for being unlikable? That is just disgusting. How often in history has this happened yet no one ever seems to learn that physical violence is unacceptable. That marginalizing people because of dislike, envy or prejudice is unacceptable. Marcel was clever, socially graceless but creative. I felt like I was watching Lord of the Flies. How they could let any of the people involved in his assault continue on the show is beyond me.
Tony,
You are my absolute favorite person to watch on tv. My fiance, myself and our 18 month old daughter simpley adore watching your show every Monday night. We delight in watching you try “intersting” things. occasionaly letting the dry sense of humor slide down and expose a soft underbelly of feelings.
That being said. Mracel was my favorite, simpley because he was the underdog and good tv. Could he cook? I don’t care. I don’t watch this show to care about their skills. It is reality tv, with a cooking premise, and someone had to be the good guy, the bitch, and someone had to constantly walk around, look into the camera and pull his blue steel face (Sam). My favorite was Sam telling the audience that he relys on his looks to help him along.
Kristenn, there is a parental warning for No Reservations!!! Just kidding… it’s really for the ages of 2-12. After 12 you can explain all the behavior/cultural differences that Bourdain experiences. DO NOT LET A 7YEAR OLD WATCH IT.
Agree with the personality assessment. Its funny to me how easily manipulated some people are by the show’s editing. Padma appeared over sensual to the point of being annoying.
BTW, Mr. Ruhlman, I met you at a audition in Chicago for Cooking Under Fire, almost got onto the show except for some rediculous issue with law department of WGBH. I’m curious what happend to that show and if there has been any talk of a another season? Thanks…
You know, Top Chef really ISN’T a personality contest – Ilan was a weaselly little instigator, true, and Sam did not come to Marcel’s aid when he should have, and, yes, Marcel is an arrogant, pretentious, socially unskilled little twerp. All true. But at the end of the day, it’s about finding a cook who can not only be a cook, but a chef – a person who can LEAD a kitchen, and get people to work for him cooperatively. Ilan did demonstrate that with his sous-chefs, Betty and Elia. Marcel, by not cross-checking his own inventory as well as layin the blame for the missing items on his sous-chefs, is not. Marcel might arguably be a better COOK than Ilan – daring, creative, and takes risks – but maybe he just hasn’t got the goods to be a CHEF . . . a leader.
I do believe Sam to be a solid cook AND having the qualities needed to be a good chef – to lead, to plan, to anticipate, and to get a kitchen to work seamlessly under him. And I believe, of course, that he was deliberately sacrificed by Colicchio and the producers for the sake of the Ilan-Marcel adversarial story line.
I mention all that only because it seems the discussion of TC and Chef Bourdain’s blogging on the subject seems to have become an issue about the contestants’ personalities, not cooking or people/leadership skills. I am also a little surprised by the level of vitriol that seems to be toxicly seeping its way up through some of these blogs. Kay might be right that neither Bourdain, Ramsay or any other well-known personality need their opinions or egos defended, but I don’t think one should start wallowing in screeds of a personal nature, either.
wengersak,
pbs really blew it with cooking under fire, which was the first of the cooking reality shows. besides airing it in the middle of pledge drives, i think they were too obsessed with “teaching”–reality television that feeds the brain, they kept saying. a noble intention, but let’s face it–reality television is about entertainment, and entertainment only.
That they decided not to do a second season is appropriate given their mission, but i was really bummed. I had so much fun making that show.
Tony, your on the mark again. I might only add that by in large, it’s kind of a fascinating loser fest including the ego maniac himself Tom Colicchio. Ever tried his food? I’m sure he’s a better food cost guy or whatever. Now for my money ,the show needs to show a lot more Padma in sweltering locations! If I was her husband I would write a scathing book about Islam and go into some serious hiding.
Claudia – seems that the toxicity of people’s comments towards Tony fit into the mold of folks that watch competition reality TV shows religiously and are very fervent in their opinions of same. I prefer to change the channel when they’re on the screen.
By the way, I have a jacket that is the same texture as Tony’s skin. Buttery soft leather. But it doesn’t smell like cigarette smoke and pig anus.
Way to go Mr. Bourdain! This is the most accurate description of the contestants I’ve read to date. I would’ve liked to have seen Sam in the finals (like tens of thousands of others), not because of his looks but because he seemed to be consistently the best, most well-rounded and to possess the best leadership skills that a Top Chef should have. Marcel seemed to be all show and no substance, and while Ilan may have consistently gone with what he knew, you defended that in a way that makes sense. I’d rather eat in a restaurant where the chef knows what he’s doing than one who’s experimenting all the time and just pushing out pretty plates.
As to TC being described as reality tv, it’s a shame, because when I started watching Season 1 I thought it was unlike the typical reality show and a true competition. It seems they’ve infused more drama in it to appeal to the masses, whereas I’d like to see more on the technical skills of the contestants and learn more about what they’re making and their creative inspirations. But alas, I fear we can only expect more drama next season as the show has gained popularity.
Keep doing what you’re doing, Mr. Bourdain!
Chef Bourdain,
Your choice of Mikey as a hangout buddy says it all. But I have to respond to your comment about Marcel’s hair. Someone on Tom’s blog called it an “aerodynamically, gravity defying, luscious chestnut mane”. I found this description very funny (in a positive way) and shared it with my daughter. Later she and her friends happened by as I was watching Top Chef and got a look at Marcel. They all thaught he was pretty damn hot and really liked his hair. BTW…. These girls ranged in age from 19 to 22 and are “all about the hair” themselves. Their only comment about Ilan was…….dork.
Skawt, your copy of Nasty Bits DOESN’T smell like cigarettes and pig (or wildebeest) rectum? Man, you were ROBBED! Return your copy immediately for the full, special scratch n’ sniff/smellovision edition! Or maybe mine is a limited edition, only available to New Yorkers? : )
Must be, Claudia, because my copy smells like durian and the sweet, sweet odor of snark.
Claudia: I don’t have Nasty Bits (the book, I *do* have nasty bits on my person). I do have a jacket, though. Maybe the next time Tony’s around I can get him to rub the jacket on his skin to give it that delightfully unique aroma.
That is, provided he doesn’t swap it to a homeless guy for some Mad Dog 20/20.
It’s always a possibility, Skawt. But Mr. Bourdain, as you no doubt have ascertained from the Las Vegas, Uzbekhistan, Finland and now the Moscow episodes, has been demonstrating deceptively robust metrosexual tendencies both on-camera and off, so you’ll just have to catch him in the mood for that aroma, I’m thinking . . . then again, he can always get some Eau de Anus from ZeroPointZero – I hear they keep some vials on hand. (Or maybe it’s just that Jerry and Todd still haven’t changed their T-shirts since last June. Hey, that’s the word on the street, at least (!)) (Heheheheheheheh!)
PS: Do I really want to know WHY your fine nubeck jacket smells like pig rectum, or has your lawyer advised you not to discuss it? (!)
It taint nubeck! (It taint taint, neither.) It doesn’t have that smell yet. I’m just thinking that if it gets near Tony it’ll pick it up through osmosis.
Top grain calfskin – and not even from the rectum.
February 4, 2007 at 7:08 pm
(Sorry, missed a bit at the end.)
It taint nubeck! (It taint taint, neither.) It doesn’t have that smell yet. I’m just thinking that if it gets near Tony it’ll pick it up through osmosis.
Top grain calfskin – and not even from the rectum. (Rectum? Damn near KILLED ‘em.) And I cry every time it shows the slightest damage. Unlike Tony, where every Three Stooges injury he experiences on No Reservations is like a day at the circus.
Nope, I think you’re out of luck, Skawt. Like I said, when he isn’t eating the nastiest of the nastiest bits of the nastiest taste treats on planet earth, Chef B has always come across as Mr. GQ all the way in his NY appearances. Your jacket won’t get anything by osmosis, I don’t think – not even a little freewheeling snark. Might get autographed, though (!)
i am just surprised by the way Bourdain is talking about the chefs. even he does not like someone he should not talk in such a rude way about that person(people). Even he can cook, he is in fact one immature kid.
about Marcel, i never liked him so much but i think he was the most matue of all. if you have noticed, he did not yell and swaer the others, as they did on him. so actually for me he is the top chef because he was able to handle all this pressure and still to cook so well.
Hey current fan, calling me a twat only shows how immature you are (and what bad taste in tv you have) current fan >:|
When Bordain put himself out there he put himself out there for better or worse and he also should expect the same kind of treatment he gives to others. If he can’t take it he shouldn’t dish it out (pun intended).